Summer
Recipes
Shrimp over creamed corn, and rather a lot of feta
Corn simmered soft in cream and butter, then blitzed until chunky and used the way you would use grits.
Charred corn and halloumi panzanella with chili crisp
One bowl, mostly made in the morning, so the cook can sit down with the guests.
Dan dan noodles, served cold on purpose
The sesame and chile sauce is bossy enough to work as a dressing, so the noodles never need to be hot.
Zucchini parmesan, roasted not fried
All the comfort of the fried original, a fraction of the oil, and no pan spitting at you.
Zucchini pasta with crispy capers and pistachios
Half the zucchini melts into the sauce and the other half comes back fried and sharp with vinegar.
Five ears of corn and very little else
The onions go pink in lemon, the tomatoes stay raw, and a small pan of garlic oil is poured over the lot.
Ditalini, corn and a great deal of miso
Half the corn charred and half of it raw, held together by miso and thick yogurt, in a bowl you eat with a spoon.
Four hours on the counter, then pasta
Ripe tomatoes left out until they slump and make their own dressing, and hot pasta tipped in to drink it.
The tomato pasta worth the airfare
Three kinds of tomato, a whisper of anchovy and enough lemon to keep it honest.
Lemon pesto spaghetti, all zest and no juice
The Amalfi trick: zest steeped into the pasta water and pounded into the pesto, toasted almonds underneath, not a drop of juice anywhere.
Sweet corn campanelle with miso butter
Corn three ways in one pot, then the fix the original never knew it needed: white miso in the butter and a lemon squeezed over the lot.
Painkiller
Dark rum, pineapple, orange and coconut cream, buried under fresh nutmeg.
Caipirinha
Brazil's national drink, built rough in the glass. Lime and sugar muddled, cachaça, crushed ice.
The daiquiri
The margarita's twin, built on white rum. Same two, one, three-quarters.
The gimlet
The same sour poured for gin. Sharp, clean, three ingredients.
The margarita
Two parts tequila, one lime, three-quarters sweet. The same drink as the daiquiri in a different hat.
Al pastor gnocchi
The crisp spit-roasted edges of al pastor, faked in a skillet. Pork, charred pineapple, a green pool of salsa verde.
Crispy spanakopita gnocchi
Spanakopita flavors massaged raw, over a cool swipe of chili-flecked yogurt.
Cherry and heirloom panzanella with burrata and prosciutto
Roasted and raw cherries, two tomatoes, one dressing built from what they weep.
Miso peanut hibachi chicken
A Hawai'i grill number with peanut butter in the band.
The Spaghett
A Miller High Life in a feather boa.
Hipster BBQ, a drink not a dinner
Vodka, lime and a salted beer chaser that tastes, absurdly, of a grill.
Baba ghanouj, minus the mashing
The dip's more glamorous sister, who refuses to be puréed.
The potato salad that forgot the mayonnaise
Bright, herby and unbothered by a jar of anything beige.
Feta under the broiler with corn and shishitos
Feta blistered molten under the broiler, corn underneath, pickled onion cutting through.
Smashed cucumbers and chicken, no stove required
Take your aggression out on a cucumber. It is good for you both.
Tahini and Parmesan, an unlikely pasta salad
A pasta salad with sesame where the mayonnaise should be, blistered tomatoes through it.
White port and tonic
Portugal's answer to the gin and tonic, and arguably the better one. Three things, two minutes.
Beeritas, no apologies
Limeade, lager and tequila by the pitcher. The margarita's lawless cousin.
Grape tomatoes in kimchi drag
Snappy tomatoes in a fire-bright gochugaru dressing. Kimchi flavor without the wait.
Corn salad that skips the vinegar
Raw corn straight off the cob, seasoned by the tomatoes and nothing else.
Greek panzanella with crispy pork
The benchmark bread salad gone Greek, with pork that crackles.
Featured
Tomato sauce so simple you'll die
Marcella's three ingredients, one of which you bin, and a fourth she never sanctioned.
A ricotta pasta that begs to be messed with
Stir it in a bowl while the water boils, then fiddle until it tastes like yours.
Gnocchi baked with corn and a goat cheese heart
A whole round of goat cheese goes in last and collapses into the sauce.