Corn salad that skips the vinegar

Corn salad that skips the vinegar

Raw corn straight off the cob, seasoned by the tomatoes and nothing else.


At a Glance

Story

Sweet corn starts converting sugar to starch the moment it leaves the stalk, which is why farm-stand corn eaten the same day tastes like a different vegetable from what sat in a truck. If your corn is that fresh, do not cook it at all. Raw kernels are crisp little pockets of juice and this salad is built to show them off.

Ingredients

  • 2 cups raw corn kernelscut from about 4 ears (up to 3 cups; cooked corn works too)
  • 1 large ripe tomatocut into small pieces
  • 4 oz fetacrumbled (about 1 cup)
  • ½ cup fresh mint leaveschopped
  • 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • sumacfor dusting (optional, my addition)

Method

A salad with no dressing to make. Ripe tomato juice carries the acid, the olive oil carries everything else, and the whole business comes together in the time it takes to strip four cobs.

  1. Put the corn, tomatoes, feta and mint in a wide bowl. Drizzle over the olive oil and toss gently, you want the feta in crumbles, not paste.
  2. Season with salt and pepper and taste. If your tomatoes are properly ripe the juice does the work of vinegar and it needs nothing else. If you want a little crimson drama, a dusting of sumac over the top brings a lemony tartness that flatters the feta enormously.
  3. Serve at room temperature, in the shade, with something cold sweating beside it.

On the pass

More to cook

Crisp rice cakes and sausage in a ketchup glaze

Crisp rice cakes and sausage in a ketchup glaze

Rice cakes fried until they crackle, then lacquered in ketchup and miso with the sausage.

Serves 450 min
A full course of Italian penicillin

A full course of Italian penicillin

Chicken soup's glamorous Italian cousin, with a spicy crumb and a cold lemon dollop.

Serves 245 min
Harissa shrimp broiled over a tray of greens

Harissa shrimp broiled over a tray of greens

The greens go in first with half a cup of water, and the shrimp only arrive once the broiler takes over.

Serves 440 min
Salt and pepper dumplings straight from the freezer

Salt and pepper dumplings straight from the freezer

Frozen potstickers and green beans, tossed at the last second in salt, sugar and more black pepper than seems wise.

Serves 425 min
Garlic noodles the way San Francisco does them

Garlic noodles the way San Francisco does them

Two heads of garlic, plenty of butter and three bottles from the cupboard, done in the time it takes to boil the pasta.

Serves 415 min
Shrimp over creamed corn, and rather a lot of feta

Shrimp over creamed corn, and rather a lot of feta

Corn simmered soft in cream and butter, then blitzed until chunky and used the way you would use grits.

Serves 440 min
Creamy lemon spaghetti with a Sichuan pepper buzz

Creamy lemon spaghetti with a Sichuan pepper buzz

Crème fraîche, miso and lemon make the sauce, and toasted Sichuan peppercorns go in twice so your lips hum.

Serves 450 min
Chicken sausage and lemon, baked as a lasagna

Chicken sausage and lemon, baked as a lasagna

A lasagna that went on holiday and came back with a tan and a lemon habit.

Serves 61 hr 5 min
Pumpkin pasta with sausage and crisp sage

Pumpkin pasta with sausage and crisp sage

Tinned pumpkin, Gruyère and a sheet pan to crisp the lot.

Serves 655 min
Sausage lasagna spread thin for the crust

Sausage lasagna spread thin for the crust

Lasagna with no layers, baked flat on a sheet pan, and an insult to nonnas everywhere.

Serves 61 hr
Vodka rigatoni, baked till the tops crackle

Vodka rigatoni, baked till the tops crackle

Vodka sauce given a sheet pan, a jar of Calabrian chilis and a honey drizzle it did nothing to deserve.

Serves 650 min
Charred corn and halloumi panzanella with chili crisp

Charred corn and halloumi panzanella with chili crisp

One bowl, mostly made in the morning, so the cook can sit down with the guests.

Serves 445 min, plus 20 min to soak
Chicken and zucchini meatballs under a feta sauce

Chicken and zucchini meatballs under a feta sauce

Half the meatball is grated zucchini, which is the only reason a chicken meatball has any business being this juicy.

Serves 445 min
Dan dan noodles, served cold on purpose

Dan dan noodles, served cold on purpose

The sesame and chile sauce is bossy enough to work as a dressing, so the noodles never need to be hot.

Serves 425 min
Zucchini parmesan, roasted not fried

Zucchini parmesan, roasted not fried

All the comfort of the fried original, a fraction of the oil, and no pan spitting at you.

Serves 61 hr 30 min
All 210 recipes

Everything, by the handful

Browse the drawer

esc
↑↓ move↵ openesc close