Charred corn and halloumi panzanella with chili crisp
the cook sits down

Charred corn and halloumi panzanella with chili crisp

One bowl, mostly made in the morning, so the cook can sit down with the guests.


At a Glance

Time
45 min, plus 20 min to soak
Serves
4

Story

Halloumi is heated in its own whey while it is being made, and that heat sets its proteins so firmly that it browns and crisps in a hot pan instead of melting into a puddle. The same firm curd turns squeaky and rubbery once it cools, which is why it goes into the salad hot and last.

Ingredients

  • ½ sourdough bouletorn into bite-size chunks (about 6 cups; day-old is better)
  • ¼ cup olive oildivided
  • 4 ears of cornkernels cut off (fresh is the star here; 3 cups frozen, thawed and patted dry, only if the season is against you)
  • 8 oz halloumicut into ½-inch slices
  • 2 large heirloom tomatoescut into wedges
  • 1 pint sungold cherry tomatoeshalved
  • ¼ cup white balsamic vinegar
  • 3 tbsp chili crispdivided, plus more to finish
  • 1 tsp kosher saltplus more to taste
  • 1 cup basil leavestorn
  • ¼ cup pepperoncinithinly sliced (optional, for a sharper bite)
  • black pepperto finish

Method

This is the one he made before I arrived, and I have only tidied it. The croutons and the corn are done in the morning and the rest is one easy hour, because the whole point was a cook who is not in the kitchen once the guests are.

  1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Toss the torn sourdough with 2 tbsp of the olive oil on a sheet pan and toast 12 to 15 minutes, until golden and crisp at the edges. Leave the croutons uncovered on the pan to cool, so they stay crisp.
  2. Stand each of the 4 ears of corn upright in a wide bowl and run a knife down the cob to take the kernels off. The bowl catches what flies. Heat a large dry skillet over high heat until it smokes, add the kernels in one layer and leave them alone for 3 to 4 minutes, until they char in patches, then stir and char another 2 minutes. Work in two batches if they will not fit in one layer. No grill required. Tip the corn into your largest bowl.
  3. About an hour before serving, set a colander over a bowl and add the heirloom wedges and the halved sungolds. Toss them with the 1 tsp of kosher salt and leave them to drain for 30 to 45 minutes. The salt pulls out a pink, faintly sweet tomato water, and every drop of it is going into the dressing.
  4. Lift out the colander and whisk the ¼ cup of white balsamic, 1 tbsp of the olive oil and 1 tbsp of the chili crisp into the tomato water in the bowl. Taste it. It should be bright enough to make you blink, so add a little more vinegar or salt until it is.
  5. Add the drained tomatoes to the corn, pour over the dressing, add the croutons and toss, then leave it for 15 to 20 minutes. The bread soaks up the tomato water and softens at the middle while the edges stay crisp. Do not skip the wait. It is the difference between a bread salad and a salad with bread in it.
  6. While it sits, crisp the halloumi. Pat the slices dry, heat the last 1 tbsp of olive oil in the skillet over medium-high heat and lay them in without crowding. Leave them alone for 2 to 3 minutes a side, until deep golden and crackling at the edges. Halloumi turns to rubber once it goes cold, so this is the one job that waits for the guests.
  7. Tear the hot halloumi straight into the bowl and fold it in with the torn basil and the pepperoncini, if using. Taste for salt, then spoon the last 2 tbsp of chili crisp over the top, with more on the table, and finish with black pepper.

The croutons and the corn keep at room temperature from the morning, the corn covered and the croutons not, so the last hour is salt, wait, toss and sear. A whole meal in one bowl, no sides. If it is 90 degrees out, that is the point.


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