
Dan dan noodles, served cold on purpose
The sesame and chile sauce is bossy enough to work as a dressing, so the noodles never need to be hot.
At a Glance
Story
Everything cooks in the one pot of boiling water on a stagger, which is the part to pay attention to. The noodles go in first, the white bok choy stems and the corn join them for the last minute and a half, and the leaves get twenty seconds at the end. Then the whole lot is drained and run under cold water, which stops the cooking dead and keeps the stems squeaky rather than limp.
Ingredients
- 10 oz baby bok choyabout 4
- 10 oz ramen noodlesfresh or frozen
- 2 cups corn kernelsfresh, canned or thawed from frozen
- 2 tbsp sesame paste or tahini
- 2 tbsp chili crispplus more to finish (or chile oil)
- 1 tbsp soy sauce
- 2 tsp Chinese black vinegar (Chinkiang)or rice vinegar for something brighter
- 2 tsp sugar
- 1 clove garlicgrated
- 3 tbsp water2 to 3 tbsp, to loosen the dressing
- 2 tbsp toasted white sesame seeds
- 2 scallionsthinly sliced
- sea salt
Method
Dan dan noodles are a Sichuan street dish, and the sauce is the reason anybody remembers them: sesame paste, chile oil, vinegar, a little sugar, enough garlic to announce itself. Loosened with a splash of water it stops being a sauce and turns into a dressing, and then the whole thing is happiest at room temperature.
Curly ramen is the noodle to use. The kinks hold the dressing where a smooth noodle lets it slide off.
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
- Separate the white parts of the bok choy from the green. Slice the white parts into thick pieces, rinse them well under the tap, and drain. Grit hides down in the base of a bok choy and nothing ruins a cold noodle dish faster.
- Cook the ramen to al dente per the packet. A minute and a half before it is ready, add the white bok choy and the corn. In the last 20 seconds, throw in the green leaves. Drain the lot, run it under cold water until cool, and leave it to drain properly.
- Whisk the sesame paste, chili crisp, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar and garlic to a chunky paste. Add 2 tbsp water and whisk again, adding the last tablespoon if it needs it, until it runs like cream. Black vinegar is the one to use if you have it, malty and dark where rice vinegar is sharp and bright.
- Tip the noodles, greens and corn into a wide shallow bowl, pour over the dressing and toss until the dressing is on everything. Top with the sesame seeds, the scallions and a few more drops of chili crisp. Taste for salt.
The dressing keeps in a sealed jar for 2 days and will set firm in the cold. Loosen it with a splash of water before it meets the noodles.
More to cook

Crisp rice cakes and sausage in a ketchup glaze
Rice cakes fried until they crackle, then lacquered in ketchup and miso with the sausage.

A full course of Italian penicillin
Chicken soup's glamorous Italian cousin, with a spicy crumb and a cold lemon dollop.

Harissa shrimp broiled over a tray of greens
The greens go in first with half a cup of water, and the shrimp only arrive once the broiler takes over.

Salt and pepper dumplings straight from the freezer
Frozen potstickers and green beans, tossed at the last second in salt, sugar and more black pepper than seems wise.

Garlic noodles the way San Francisco does them
Two heads of garlic, plenty of butter and three bottles from the cupboard, done in the time it takes to boil the pasta.

Shrimp over creamed corn, and rather a lot of feta
Corn simmered soft in cream and butter, then blitzed until chunky and used the way you would use grits.

Creamy lemon spaghetti with a Sichuan pepper buzz
Crème fraîche, miso and lemon make the sauce, and toasted Sichuan peppercorns go in twice so your lips hum.

Chicken sausage and lemon, baked as a lasagna
A lasagna that went on holiday and came back with a tan and a lemon habit.

Pumpkin pasta with sausage and crisp sage
Tinned pumpkin, Gruyère and a sheet pan to crisp the lot.

Sausage lasagna spread thin for the crust
Lasagna with no layers, baked flat on a sheet pan, and an insult to nonnas everywhere.

Vodka rigatoni, baked till the tops crackle
Vodka sauce given a sheet pan, a jar of Calabrian chilis and a honey drizzle it did nothing to deserve.

Charred corn and halloumi panzanella with chili crisp
One bowl, mostly made in the morning, so the cook can sit down with the guests.

Chicken and zucchini meatballs under a feta sauce
Half the meatball is grated zucchini, which is the only reason a chicken meatball has any business being this juicy.

Zucchini parmesan, roasted not fried
All the comfort of the fried original, a fraction of the oil, and no pan spitting at you.

Zucchini pasta with crispy capers and pistachios
Half the zucchini melts into the sauce and the other half comes back fried and sharp with vinegar.