Vodka rigatoni, baked till the tops crackle

Vodka sauce is at its best clinging to the ridges of rigatoni, and it is better still when the rigatoni on top has gone crisp in a hot oven. The honey goes on at the very end, warmed with a teaspoon of the chili oil from the jar, so you get hot honey without buying another bottle.

1. Heat the oven to 425°F and oil your largest straight-sided baking sheet, the 12-by-17 size, with the olive oil. Put a large pot of well-salted water on to boil.
2. Melt the butter in a large, deep skillet over medium. Cook the shallot 3 minutes, until soft, then add the garlic and chilis and cook 1 minute.
3. Add all the tomato paste and fry it, stirring and pressing it into the pan, about 4 minutes, until it goes from red to brick and starts to catch.
4. Take the pan off the heat before the vodka goes in, so it does not catch. Pour it in, scrape the pan clean with the spoon, then back on the heat for 1 minute at a boil, then stir in the cream and salt and simmer 2 minutes. Take it off the heat.
5. Boil the rigatoni for 5 minutes only, then scoop it straight into the skillet and add 1 cup of the pasta water, 1 cup of the mozzarella and ½ cup of the Parmesan. Toss until it is loose and pink.
6. Spread it over the sheet pan. Drop the ricotta over in spoonfuls, then scatter the remaining mozzarella and Parmesan.
7. Bake 25 minutes, until the rigatoni poking out of the top has crisped at the edges and the sauce is bubbling underneath.
8. Warm the honey with the teaspoon of chili oil for 20 seconds in a small pan or the microwave. Drizzle it over the pan, tear over the basil and let it sit 5 minutes before you cut it.