
Oregano chicken with orzo and a quick tapenade
The tapenade takes two minutes and does the work of a much longer sauce.
At a Glance
Story
Crème fraîche stirred into hot pasta will not split the way cream does. It is soured, so its proteins have already been through the acid that would otherwise curdle them in the pot, and it carries more fat besides. That is why a spoonful off the heat gives you a sauce and a splash of double cream in the same place gives you a pot of grainy white flecks.
Ingredients
- 2 chicken breasts
- 4 oz orzo
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- 4 oz sugar snap peasstrings pulled and halved crosswise
- 1 oz Niçoise olivespitted and finely chopped
- 1 clove garlicgrated to a paste
- 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 2 tbsp crème fraîche
- 1 ½ oz fetacrumbled
- olive oilsalt, pepper
Method
The olives, vinegar and garlic take two minutes and are the whole seasoning of the dish. Make them first and let them sit.
- Salted water on to boil. Chop the olives finely and stir them with the garlic paste, half the vinegar and a teaspoon of olive oil. Taste and season. That is the tapenade. Leave it.
- Pat the chicken dry and season both sides with salt, pepper and the oregano. Medium pan, a teaspoon of oil, medium-high. 6 to 7 minutes a side, until browned and 165°F. Onto a board, foil over it and leave the browned bits in the pan.
- Orzo into the water, 7 to 9 minutes, until tender. Drain and return to the pot.
- Straight into the chicken pan, a little oil, the snap peas, seasoned. 2 to 3 minutes, until browned at the edges and still squeaky.
- Peas, crème fraîche, feta and the remaining vinegar into the orzo. Stir, taste, season.
- Slice the chicken across, sit it on the orzo, and spoon the tapenade over the top.
Snap peas want to stay crunchy. The moment they go limp and army-green you have lost the only textural contrast in the bowl.
More to cook

Crisp rice cakes and sausage in a ketchup glaze
Rice cakes fried until they crackle, then lacquered in ketchup and miso with the sausage.

A full course of Italian penicillin
Chicken soup's glamorous Italian cousin, with a spicy crumb and a cold lemon dollop.

Harissa shrimp broiled over a tray of greens
The greens go in first with half a cup of water, and the shrimp only arrive once the broiler takes over.

Salt and pepper dumplings straight from the freezer
Frozen potstickers and green beans, tossed at the last second in salt, sugar and more black pepper than seems wise.

Garlic noodles the way San Francisco does them
Two heads of garlic, plenty of butter and three bottles from the cupboard, done in the time it takes to boil the pasta.

Shrimp over creamed corn, and rather a lot of feta
Corn simmered soft in cream and butter, then blitzed until chunky and used the way you would use grits.

Creamy lemon spaghetti with a Sichuan pepper buzz
Crème fraîche, miso and lemon make the sauce, and toasted Sichuan peppercorns go in twice so your lips hum.

Chicken sausage and lemon, baked as a lasagna
A lasagna that went on holiday and came back with a tan and a lemon habit.

Pumpkin pasta with sausage and crisp sage
Tinned pumpkin, Gruyère and a sheet pan to crisp the lot.

Sausage lasagna spread thin for the crust
Lasagna with no layers, baked flat on a sheet pan, and an insult to nonnas everywhere.

Vodka rigatoni, baked till the tops crackle
Vodka sauce given a sheet pan, a jar of Calabrian chilis and a honey drizzle it did nothing to deserve.

Charred corn and halloumi panzanella with chili crisp
One bowl, mostly made in the morning, so the cook can sit down with the guests.

Chicken and zucchini meatballs under a feta sauce
Half the meatball is grated zucchini, which is the only reason a chicken meatball has any business being this juicy.

Dan dan noodles, served cold on purpose
The sesame and chile sauce is bossy enough to work as a dressing, so the noodles never need to be hot.

Zucchini parmesan, roasted not fried
All the comfort of the fried original, a fraction of the oil, and no pan spitting at you.