
MSG martini
Savory, filthy and faintly illegal-feeling. Stir, don't ask.
At a Glance
Story
MSG is not a chemical scare story, dear boy, it is glutamate with a sodium chaperone, the same savory molecule a chemist named Kikunae Ikeda pulled out of a pot of kombu broth in 1908 and christened umami. It dissolves clean, carries no bitterness of its own and lends a martini the round, mouth-filling savor that olive brine only gestures at. A quarter teaspoon is plenty. More and it turns to soup.
Ingredients
- 5 fl oz London dry gin or a good cold vodka
- 1 fl oz dry vermouth
- ¼ tsp MSG
- ½ fl oz olive brineoptional, for a properly filthy one
- icefor stirring
- Castelvetrano olives or a lemon twistto garnish
Method
Every filthy martini is chasing savor. Most reach for olive brine and end up cloudy and sharp. This one goes to the source instead, and keeps the glass crystalline.
- Put your coupes or martini glasses in the freezer while you work. A warm glass is the fastest way to ruin a cold drink.
- In a mixing glass combine the gin, vermouth and MSG, and the olive brine if you are being wicked. Stir a moment with no ice first, just to dissolve the grains.
- Fill the glass with ice and stir long and steady, about 20 seconds. You stir a spirit-only drink rather than shake it because shaking clouds it with air and shards, and here you want it clear and silky, not frothed.
- Strain into the frozen glasses. Olives on the skewer for whoever wants them, a lemon twist for whoever doesn't, expressed over the top so the oils catch the light.
Make a jug of it for a party by scaling up the chips and stirring in batches over plenty of ice. Do not pre-dilute and hold, it goes flat and sad within the hour.
More to cook

Crisp rice cakes and sausage in a ketchup glaze
Rice cakes fried until they crackle, then lacquered in ketchup and miso with the sausage.

A full course of Italian penicillin
Chicken soup's glamorous Italian cousin, with a spicy crumb and a cold lemon dollop.

Harissa shrimp broiled over a tray of greens
The greens go in first with half a cup of water, and the shrimp only arrive once the broiler takes over.

Salt and pepper dumplings straight from the freezer
Frozen potstickers and green beans, tossed at the last second in salt, sugar and more black pepper than seems wise.

Garlic noodles the way San Francisco does them
Two heads of garlic, plenty of butter and three bottles from the cupboard, done in the time it takes to boil the pasta.

Shrimp over creamed corn, and rather a lot of feta
Corn simmered soft in cream and butter, then blitzed until chunky and used the way you would use grits.

Creamy lemon spaghetti with a Sichuan pepper buzz
Crème fraîche, miso and lemon make the sauce, and toasted Sichuan peppercorns go in twice so your lips hum.

Chicken sausage and lemon, baked as a lasagna
A lasagna that went on holiday and came back with a tan and a lemon habit.

Pumpkin pasta with sausage and crisp sage
Tinned pumpkin, Gruyère and a sheet pan to crisp the lot.

Sausage lasagna spread thin for the crust
Lasagna with no layers, baked flat on a sheet pan, and an insult to nonnas everywhere.

Vodka rigatoni, baked till the tops crackle
Vodka sauce given a sheet pan, a jar of Calabrian chilis and a honey drizzle it did nothing to deserve.

Charred corn and halloumi panzanella with chili crisp
One bowl, mostly made in the morning, so the cook can sit down with the guests.

Chicken and zucchini meatballs under a feta sauce
Half the meatball is grated zucchini, which is the only reason a chicken meatball has any business being this juicy.

Dan dan noodles, served cold on purpose
The sesame and chile sauce is bossy enough to work as a dressing, so the noodles never need to be hot.

Zucchini parmesan, roasted not fried
All the comfort of the fried original, a fraction of the oil, and no pan spitting at you.