Miso-sesame vinaigrette, good on almost anything
shaken, always

Miso-sesame vinaigrette, good on almost anything

The jar in the fridge door you reach for without thinking.


At a Glance

Time
5 min
Makes
about 1 cup

Story

A dressing you build yourself beats anything bottled for one reason, which is that you control the order, and order is the whole game here. Coax the neutral oil into the miso and vinegars first, with the blade running, until it thickens and turns creamy. Then, and not a moment sooner, stir the sesame oil and seeds in by hand, well away from the blade. Blitz them and you flog every last note of toast out of them, and the toast was the entire reason you invited them.

Ingredients

  • 2 cloves garlicsmashed
  • 1 small shallotroughly chopped
  • 2 tbsp shoyu or tamari
  • 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
  • 2 tbsp red or white wine vinegar
  • 1 tbsp light miso paste
  • 1 tbsp dark brown sugar
  • ½ cup grapeseed or other neutral oil
  • 2 tbsp toasted sesame oil
  • 2 tbsp toasted white or black sesame seeds

Method

Miso does the heavy lifting a bottled dressing never could, that deep savory hum that makes people ask what is in it. Make the full jar, it keeps three weeks and only gets better.

  1. Combine the garlic, shallot, shoyu, both vinegars, miso and brown sugar in a blender and run it on high until completely smooth. No blender? A mortar and pestle and a strong arm will pound the garlic and shallot to a paste, then you stir the liquids in after.
  2. With the blender on medium, and the liquid pulled into a tidy little vortex rather than climbing the walls, drizzle in the neutral oil in a thin thread until it thickens and turns glossy.
  3. Pour into a jar with a lid. Now stir in the sesame oil and the sesame seeds with a spoon, by hand. This is the step people skip and regret. Chill up to three weeks and shake hard before every pour, because it will separate and that is exactly as it should be.

On the pass

More to cook

Crisp rice cakes and sausage in a ketchup glaze

Crisp rice cakes and sausage in a ketchup glaze

Rice cakes fried until they crackle, then lacquered in ketchup and miso with the sausage.

Serves 450 min
A full course of Italian penicillin

A full course of Italian penicillin

Chicken soup's glamorous Italian cousin, with a spicy crumb and a cold lemon dollop.

Serves 245 min
Harissa shrimp broiled over a tray of greens

Harissa shrimp broiled over a tray of greens

The greens go in first with half a cup of water, and the shrimp only arrive once the broiler takes over.

Serves 440 min
Salt and pepper dumplings straight from the freezer

Salt and pepper dumplings straight from the freezer

Frozen potstickers and green beans, tossed at the last second in salt, sugar and more black pepper than seems wise.

Serves 425 min
Garlic noodles the way San Francisco does them

Garlic noodles the way San Francisco does them

Two heads of garlic, plenty of butter and three bottles from the cupboard, done in the time it takes to boil the pasta.

Serves 415 min
Shrimp over creamed corn, and rather a lot of feta

Shrimp over creamed corn, and rather a lot of feta

Corn simmered soft in cream and butter, then blitzed until chunky and used the way you would use grits.

Serves 440 min
Creamy lemon spaghetti with a Sichuan pepper buzz

Creamy lemon spaghetti with a Sichuan pepper buzz

Crème fraîche, miso and lemon make the sauce, and toasted Sichuan peppercorns go in twice so your lips hum.

Serves 450 min
Chicken sausage and lemon, baked as a lasagna

Chicken sausage and lemon, baked as a lasagna

A lasagna that went on holiday and came back with a tan and a lemon habit.

Serves 61 hr 5 min
Pumpkin pasta with sausage and crisp sage

Pumpkin pasta with sausage and crisp sage

Tinned pumpkin, Gruyère and a sheet pan to crisp the lot.

Serves 655 min
Sausage lasagna spread thin for the crust

Sausage lasagna spread thin for the crust

Lasagna with no layers, baked flat on a sheet pan, and an insult to nonnas everywhere.

Serves 61 hr
Vodka rigatoni, baked till the tops crackle

Vodka rigatoni, baked till the tops crackle

Vodka sauce given a sheet pan, a jar of Calabrian chilis and a honey drizzle it did nothing to deserve.

Serves 650 min
Charred corn and halloumi panzanella with chili crisp

Charred corn and halloumi panzanella with chili crisp

One bowl, mostly made in the morning, so the cook can sit down with the guests.

Serves 445 min, plus 20 min to soak
Chicken and zucchini meatballs under a feta sauce

Chicken and zucchini meatballs under a feta sauce

Half the meatball is grated zucchini, which is the only reason a chicken meatball has any business being this juicy.

Serves 445 min
Dan dan noodles, served cold on purpose

Dan dan noodles, served cold on purpose

The sesame and chile sauce is bossy enough to work as a dressing, so the noodles never need to be hot.

Serves 425 min
Zucchini parmesan, roasted not fried

Zucchini parmesan, roasted not fried

All the comfort of the fried original, a fraction of the oil, and no pan spitting at you.

Serves 61 hr 30 min
All 210 recipes

Everything, by the handful

Browse the drawer

esc
↑↓ move↵ openesc close