Mákos tészta, sweet poppy seed noodles
Sweet, nutty buttered noodles that Budapest sits down to for supper.
At a Glance
Story
Mákos tészta is Hungarian, and older than it looks, a peasant supper going back to at least the 16th century when noodles, poppy and a little sweetness were what a modest kitchen had to hand. The one thing you must not skip is grinding the poppy seeds. Left whole they are only a faint crunch, but crushed they release their oil and go properly nutty and fragrant, which is the entire flavor of the dish.
Ingredients
- saltfor the pasta water
- 12 oz egg noodles
- ½ cup poppy seeds
- 6 tbsp granulated sugar
- 5 tbsp cold unsalted buttersliced into pieces
Method
Buttered noodles are a nursery comfort the world over, and this is the version that decided to be sweet. It is nutty and unbothered, eaten as a main course in Hungary, alone or with a soup or a sharp salad alongside to keep it honest. Four ingredients, one pot and the only real work is a spice grinder. Use poppy seeds you actually bought this year, old ones turn dusty and flat.
- Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the noodles until just shy of al dente, 1 minute less than the packet says. Reserve ⅓ cup of the cooking water before you drain, then keep the noodles in the warm pot.
- In a spice grinder, pulse the poppy seeds and sugar together until finely ground and fragrant, working in batches if your grinder is small. This is the step that makes the dish, so grind them properly, not just a token buzz.
- Add the poppy sugar, the butter and the reserved pasta water to the noodles over medium-low heat. Toss with tongs until the butter melts into a glossy coat and the poppy clings to every strand. Serve at once, while it is warm and silky.
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